South Philly-born Steve Martorano looks like muscle from Tony Soprano's crew, but it's as a cook that he has built his reputation. The heavily tattooed, self-taught chef's new pasta sauces offer a taste of the rich, lusty red-sauce cooking that draws a celebrity crowd to his namesake restaurants in Fort Lauderdale and Las Vegas. A standout among the five varietiesis his spicy Sicilian with imported San Marzano tomatoes and a powerful crushed red pepper kick, $10 for a 24-ounce jar at Dean & Deluca